The Day I summited Friendship Peak (Part 2)
After coming back to the campsite, we rested for some time, prepared food and a couple of other teams and some great mountaineers had just arrived at the lady leg campsite where we were since past 2 days. As decided I would rest the following day and then go for my summit attempt on 8th night. But neither of my partners were able to join me as both of them were down and were physically unfit. And there was no chance that I'd go alone. When my leg got stuck for just half a feet the previous night in the crevasse, I could not get myself out and if I'd go alone there could have been many problems. And at that time as I had spent a couple of days at the campsite, I met Gautam Bhai @chaseyourdreamsstories and Chintu bhai @i_born_to_explore. Even they were attempting Mt. Friendship Peak but not in alpine style. They had guides and kitchen staff whereas we were managing all the logistics, food everything by ourselves. We just had a chat and I told them what had happened previous night on our summit attempt. They were going for the summit attempt on 7th night that is the following night. I just thought that instead of going alone when there'll be no one on the mountain why not go with them? But the concern was that I already had a summit attempt the previous night and I was exhausted. Though I was physically fit, did not have any injuries but doing back to back summit attempts with almost or no proper sleep and food. It'd be very difficult soni just told them that I'll wake up at night and see how I'm feeling, if I'm good I'll join you guys else I'll go off to sleep. And while talking to their guides, I told them that I won't be all the time with you because you need to look after your clients as well. Just the thing that if at all I need any help on the technical or tricky sections please help me out and even the guides were quite helpful and they told that don't worry we'll help you.
As I knew that if anything goes wrong, I'll have some support with me I was more confident and I slept at 6 PM, woke up at 11 in the night and trust me those 5 hours of sleep recovered me so much. I was now almost recovered to my regular levels and was feeling quite confident as well and hence decided to go for summit push again and left the lady leg campsite at 1 in the night.
We were quite fast than our previous night. And luckily I was able to cope up. I was not with them all the time but just around them, helping them at some patches. And at night around 4.15 we reached the point from where we had backed off the previous night. We were damn fast. I climbed the whole ice wall alone without their support. They even used fixed ropes at a point but I just climbed as I was confident enough on myself and my skills. And at around 5 we were at the top of ice wall which was around 300-400ft. At that time the sun was about to rise and it was dawn already. I could literally witness THE GOLDEN HOUR. The first rays of sun falling on Mt. Hanuman Tibba and the surrounding peaks. And at that time we were walking on the narrow ridge where hardly two people could stand close by to each other. There was 300 ft drop on one side from where we climbed up and other side had a 2000-2500ft drop. And at that time walking on that ridge literally gave me goosebumps. The view was just surreal. Can not describe or express it in words! Post that ridge, the area was quite exposed as there were literally loose rocks all around with an inclination of 60-65°. As soon as we'd put one foot ahead, 20 rocks would fall down. It was quite tricky and challenging and climbing was damn difficult. Slowly and steadily we kept going and at 8.50 AM on 8th Oct'20 we finally reached the summit. I was simply overwhelmed. At first I didn't know how should I react. There were so many mixed feelings. It was the first expedition and first summit of my life. Xing out of Covid and just 10 days before going, I was abould to cancel my trip. All the efforts and hardwork had paid off at that very moment. Luckily there was 2G network up there. I called my Mom and couple of my friends and was happy talking to them. From the top I could see the whole town of Manali, Kullu, the Atal Tunnel and the whole route from where I climbed up. I was satisfied. After spending some good time at the top, we started to descend at 10 AM. The descend was even more difficult and challenging especially on the loose rocks but slowly and steadily we kept descending. Also I had a summit attempt a day before so I was quite exhausted then compared to others as they were fresh than me. Hence I was a bit slow. They went ahead of me. I navigated the whole descend by myself but at one such point I slipped while descending and had a almost 40-50ft fall. Luckily I was safe but my pants had torn off but that's okay. And I had worn an extra pant as it was quite cold in the night while ascending. Gautam Bhai and Chintu bhai reached back to the campsite at around 2 in the noon but I was slow it took me more time. After a point when I was just 2 hours away from the campsite, I decided to rest for some time. As I sat I realised that I had run out of water and coffee. And I was so dehydrated at that time. Luckily I had an apple. Ate that and felt good. Imagine a 16 hour round trip with almost 1200 meters of height gain with just one litre of water, few sips of coffee and an apple! Coming back to campsite with every step I was talking, I was pushing myself mentally. I told myself "Khush, whatever happens now you'll take a break directly after reaching to campsite. Just one step in front of another and you'll reach." And slowly and steadily I kept on walking and recahed back to campsite at 4 in the afternoon.
In the past 48 hours, I had gained and lost almost 2000 meters of height, was climbing for almost 30 odd hours and had slept for only 10 hours. It was a crazy experience, learnt a hell lot of things and was safe and sound!
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